Posts Tagged ‘Egypt’

Eating my way around the Middle East

Wednesday, 28th July, 2010


Or, Variations on a theme of veggies and rice

One of the things I love most about the Middle East (and Morocco for that matter) is the quality of the vegetables. Ripe and vibrant and so thick they’re amost meaty. In this chilly, drizzly, frost-prone island I call home a large percentage of food is imported, and consequently picked early for processing and transport, force-ripened and often watery. So it’s a treat to travel and sample food from better climates.

One day in Jerusalem we picked up a few mangoes in the souk on our way to the Holocaust Museum. As vividly as I’ll remember the images and stories I saw there I’ll remember the ripest mangoes I ever tasted, fragrant skin so soft we peeled them with our teeth as we walked up the hill to catch a bus back to the Old City.

I’m surprised as I look back through my photos that I didn’t take many of the food — maybe my firing tastebuds were obscuring my photographic eye. Although I neglected to take photos of the array of fruit and vegetable stalls in the markets, I did whip my camera out a few times before tucking into meals:


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Unbelievable roasted and salted aubergine in Caesarea, Israel


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Dinner buffet at a Bedouin camp in St Katherine’s, Egypt, before climbing Mount Sinai. Delicious. And yes, I was naughty but the bread was irresistible


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Clear vegetable soup in Aqaba, Jordan…


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…and yes, more rice and veggies


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The remnants of dinner laid out for us at a Bedouin camp in Wadi Rum, Jordan. This was perhaps my favorite dish…the seasoned rice was amazing


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A rich red tomato dish in the rose red city of Petra, Jordan
(The bread wasn’t mine this time!)


The noticeable lack of pictures from Israel is mostly down to the fact that I didn’t have much of an appetite there… perhaps adjusting to the heat. Still, I’m not quite sure how I ended up with no shots of falafel and hummous… or watermelon for that matter, which I ate every day for breakfast… a lesson learned for future trips, I hope.

A photographic journey

Monday, 26th July, 2010


I didn’t do a Photo Friday post last week because I was still in the process of uploading my trip photos to Flickr and was overwhelmed by the idea of choosing the first picture to post here. So I decided to approach it differently and pick one from each stop we made. Even that proved difficult — I did after all upload more than 1,700 photos! So let me take you on a little photo journey, featuring just a handful of my favourite snaps:

Jerusalem

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View of the Old City from the Mount of Olives


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Spices in the Old City souk


Caesarea

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Ruins of coastal city built by Herod the Great


Bethlehem

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What stuck me about Bethlehem were the stunning views…

… and the steep, narrow winding streets
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Herodium

(also spelled Herodion)

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Palace and fortress built by Herod the Great c.26 B.C.E. in the Judean hills just south of Jerusalem, with spectacular views out to the desert and the Dead Sea

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Jericho

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Sea of Galilee

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Jordan River

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Ein Gedi

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Male ibex fighting in the cliffs of the nature reserve

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Mount Sinai

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Wadi Rum

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Petra

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Amman

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I include this purely because strangely it’s the only photo I took in Amman. I was tired and preoccupied with the last-minute shopping we needed to do before flying home, but it’s still hard to believe I didn’t think to take shots of the vibrant downtown area with its clothes shops and fruit markets and street stalls selling everything from pens to hair products to prickly pears.


This was such a hard edit to do, but it was a great exercise in picking out photos to print and enlarge for my walls. I can’t wait to put together a large framed collage. The rest of the photos are up on Flickr, here.

Savouring a taste of life on the road

Monday, 19th July, 2010


Bold tan lines. Loose waistbands. Unkempt braids. Piles of dusty laundry. Bone tiredness.

I got back from the Middle East a week ago but I haven’t quite emerged from the post-trip daze of an active two weeks quasi-backpacking through three countries.

Even though it was only two weeks, as I suspected when we got to Amman, Jordan, our final stop, returning home would result in a bit of reverse culture shock. After climbing and scrambling ancient ruins in 35+ degree heat, sleeping in the desert, striding through vibrant souks, haggling over everything, taking four hour coach journeys every couple of days… falling back into the home-Tube-office-Tube-home cycle has been jarring. My unpacked suitcase is still in the middle of the floor, a subconscious nod to my wish to hold on to the just-returned feeling, before the repetitious routine reclaims me completely.

I previously posted our planned itinerary, and it did in fact go largely as outlined, except day 7-8, when we got caught out by the Sabbath (carelessness on my part) in Ein Gedi by the Israeli side of the Dead Sea. Since there were no buses that would either take us to Masada or down to Eilat, it was fortunate that we’d made reservations at IYHA hostels in both Ein Gedi and Eilat — a quick call from the front desk allowed us to cancel the Eilat room and stay in Ein Gedi a second night.

We were staying in Ein Gedi because the Masada hostel was full and as usual when things don’t go to plan, it turned out even better, because we got to stay across the street from the Dead Sea — floating in its warm salty water and smearing on the thick black mud found in rocky crags on the beach rivals any expensive spa treatment — and next to the nature reserve, where we watched groups of ibex navigate their way down steep cliffs to drink water from the stream and cooled ourselves in crystal-clear waterfalls.

Obviously I’ve been asked repeatedly what my highlight of the trip was, and Ein Gedi was definitely a high point, but there were high points at every stop — in Israel I loved being in Jerusalem and by day 2 was joking about moving there to learn Hebrew; the ruins at Caesarea were impressive and the source of fun text message hints to friends back home that we ended up in a police car (the police generously gave us a lift to the train station at night when we couldn’t find a cab); the bustling streets of Bethlehem in the West Bank were wonderfully evocative; the panoramic views across Israel from the steep hill at Herodian took my breath away; the deep-blue Sea of Galilee was an unforgettable sight. In Egypt the wonder of following a Bedouin guide up Mount Sinai in the middle of the night, with only starlight and, when it emerged, the moon, to light the way was equalled by watching the sun rise over the mountains from a prime east-facing perch at the top. In Jordan both Wadi Rum and Petra surpassed my already-high expectations of the magical sun-drenched beauty of the multi-tonal rock.

And as well as having great company — an outgoing friend with similar travel interests, an easy laugh and a wonderful sense of humour — we met some kind, generous and fascinating people along the way, from the 19-year-old girl in the first of her two years of compulsory army service we met taking the train from Caesarea to Tel Aviv; to the Canadian couple we encountered in Wadi Rum who were approaching the end of a 6-month trip driving a jeep from Cape Town back to England; to the students at a camp in Sinai about to embark on a two-month trek studying biodiversity in the desert; to the American woman who approached us on the street in Amman having heard us speaking English and talked about her public health internship as we drank fresh sugar cane juice and haggled with market sellers over scarves.

Those two short weeks will stay with me for a long time, a goldmine of memories, emotions and well over 1,500 photos that are gradually making their way to Flickr.

Mideast adventure awaits

Friday, 25th June, 2010


It’s finally the night before and I’m packed and finishing up reading first-century historian Josephus’ account of the Roman-Jewish war. We’re flying into Tel Aviv and heading straight to Jerusalem. Hard to believe that 24 hours from now I’ll likely be sitting on a hotel roof terrace looking out on the Old City.

Back in two weeks!

Planning for the Middle East… and you know what they say about plans…

Sunday, 16th May, 2010

With memories of Rome still lingering in my mind, I recently got together with a friend to make hotel reservations for our trip to the Middle East next month. We’d previously booked our flights — London-Tel Aviv and Amman-London. We’re leaving on the 26th for two weeks. (And two weeks only because I can’t get more than that off work in one go… This is why I’m becoming increasingly envious of long-term travellers.)

Ever since my week in January last year lolling about at a Red Sea resort in Egypt when I took a day trip to Jerusalem, I’ve been itching to get back and spend some time exploring Israel, a place of religious and ancestral significance for me, and step across into Jordan to see rose-red Petra with my own eyes. Every picture I’ve seen of Petra looks breathtaking. I can’t wait to have my breath taken. I had been prepared to do the trip solo, but in this case I’m glad to have someone to share my excitement.

Fingers crossed that the situation in Israel, particularly Jerusalem, remains relatively quiet… last year’s trip was just days after the ceasefire in Gaza and it was a peaceful Sabbath.

Our ambitious, sleepless itinerary looks like this:

  • Days 1-6 – Jerusalem, as a base for
    Caesarea
    Galilee
    Bethlehem
    Jericho
    (In our initial sketched-out plan drawn up over dinner we somehow forgot to allow any time actually in Jerusalem…I blame the cocktails…)

  • Day 7 – we’ll head down to Masada and stay overnight so that on
  • Day 8 – we can explore the fort. That evening we’ll move on to Eilat and
  • Day 9 – into Egypt to climb Mt Sinai and watch the sun rise
  • Day 10 – Bleary-eyed descent and border crossing to Aqaba
  • Day 11 – Wadi Rum, staying at a Bedouin camp overnight
  • Days 12-13 – Petra
  • Day 14 – Leave Petra for Amman
  • Day 15 – Amman
  • Day 16 – Flight home, in need of a holiday to get over the holiday.

Hard to believe it is in fact happening next month; I’ve been dreaming of this trip for a long time. It’ll soon be time to start drawing up packing lists and shopping lists and sightseeing lists… I don’t feel prepared if I don’t have a stack of lists telling me not to forget to pack underwear… I’m very good at overpacking outfit variations and completely forgetting underwear… or nightwear.

And a trip with so many amazing, beautiful, historic sights requires I finally bite the bullet and buy a digital SLR camera. I’ve been increasingly nostalgic for the feel of shooting with my film SLR, but without the desire to tote around and develop 835457 rolls of film. I’ll be picking one up in the next few weeks, and will be immediately paranoid that I’ve picked the wrong model. Anyway, more on that later.

More, also, on a ridiculously long-overdue trip to Paris that I’m looking at doing over the August bank holiday.

Photo Friday – Sinai desert

Friday, 26th March, 2010


Glancing back through the archive I can’t believe I didn’t get around to at least posting this photo from my trip to Egypt last January. Every time I look at it, it conjures up the stark beauty of the desert, offering a glimpse of the Earth’s millenia.

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The Year of Travel

Thursday, 31st December, 2009


Back in January, Chi-town Girl and I dubbed 2009 “the year of travel”. At the time I couldn’t have imagined what was in store for me. I ended up taking six trips, going to 8 countries (and not blogging a single one). Travel defined 2009 for me — I came back from one trip to immediately start planning the next, and by the end of the year I wasn’t even bothering to put my suitcase away between unpacking and packing again. So as I sit here on New Year’s Eve trying to get my head around the fact that tomorrow is the start of a new decade, here’s my travel year in review:

  • January: Sharm el Sheikh, Egypt & Jerusalem, Israel

In the pursuit of winter sun and ancient history I got over my apprehension about cheesy package deals in tourist traps and booked myself a week in Sharm el Sheikh. I made a perfect choice in the Sea Life resort, a beautiful collection of traditional Nubian buildings in lush gardens with its own stretch of beach in Nabq Bay, away from Sharm proper. The snorkelling in crystal clear waters teeming with tropical fish, the stunning stretches of Sinai desert, the perfect weather, and the proximity to so many other fantastic places in the Middle East, make it one of my favourite places. I can’t wait to go back.

While I was there I took the plunge and went on a guided day trip to Jerusalem. I can’t even describe how surreal it felt to be travelling up through the Negeb in the early hours of the morning, standing on the beach of the Dead Sea, walking around the old city, steeped in thousands of years of history. Of course the trip was on one of the few cold, misty days in Israel — that’s the way my life works. I’m planning a two-week trip to see Israel and Jordan properly, and I want to fit Egypt in there even if it is just to do the overnight climb up Mount Sinai.

  • February: Rome, Italy

I’ve wanted to go to Rome for a long time, so when Chi-town Girl suggested we go for a weekend when she came to London I immediately said yes. Two days is by no means long enough to see the sights of Rome, especially when it turns out your travel companion isn’t really into sightseeing after all, but I can say I finally got to drink in the sights of the Colosseum, Palatine Hill, St. Peter’s Square. I took a temporary break from the endometriosis diet ahead of my surgery in March and stuffed myself with pizza, pasta and gelato. I had abdominal pain for at least a week after, but it was worth every bite.

  • May/June: Toronto, Canada & Chicago, U.S.

After taking a break to get over the surgery, I headed across the pond in the last week of May to catch up with friends. Having done my third year of university at Ryerson in Toronto I have some wonderful friends there, a group of girls who are like my sisters. We were out every night until at least 2am and once again I got melancholic about what my life could be if I moved back there. Miss Ross broke my heart when she said she was holding out hope I’d move back so we could be flatmates. We’ve been talking for years about bouncing around Europe together — hopefully 2010 will finally be the year it happens.

Seven days were nowhere near long enough in T.O., which everyone I saw chided me about, but while I was less than two hours away from Chicago I had to go and see Chi-town Girl. After the exhausting madness of Toronto, it was a nice change of pace to hang around such a cool city. And that’s a deliberate word choice — wandering around downtown, it just had the atmosphere of being cool. I spent most of my time shopping…Loehmanns, Nordstrom Rack, Michigan Ave…love. Why can we not have Loehmanns in London?? When I wasn’t building my Marc by Marc Jacobs collection I also did the fabulous Chicago Architectural Foundation boat tour, wandered around the Art Institute, and took Chi-town Girl on an impromptu walking tour of Frank Lloyd Wright-designed houses. I hope I make it back there someday.

  • September/October: Paphos, Cyprus

The summer was spent preparing to be a bridesmaid in Kam’s wedding in Paphos harbour the first weekend of October. I stayed in the same hotel as the bride and groom to be and although I didn’t expect to see much of her in the few days before the ceremony, we got in some quality sightseeing and ice cream eating time. As well as being a bit of a Brit tourist trap, Paphos has a beautiful coastline, historical sites like the Tombs of the Kings and the archeological park (a World Heritage Site) with its fantastic mosaics, and great vegetarian food. Once Kam was safely married and off on her honeymoon to Egypt without drama, I took a day trip to the stunning Troodos Mountains.

  • October: Prague, Czech Republic

As soon as I got back from Cyprus I was preparing for my first business trip two weeks later to a conference in Prague. Since the conference was on a Thursday and Friday, I stayed the weekend to cram in some sightseeing. From the moment the cab from the airport drove past the gothic structures of the Old Town illuminated in the night, I knew I was in for a treat. Prague is the most breathtakingly beautiful city I’ve seen, straight out of fairytales. Every time I was in the Old Town Square I heard someone refer to Disney or Cinderella. Each building in each cobblestone street is gorgeous, and I wanted to photograph them all. Judging by the more than 700 snaps I took in the course of 2 days, it feels like I almost did. Prague Castle was almost overwhelming, and St Vitus Cathedral has joined the Palace of Westminster as one of my favourite buildings in the world. (So, incidentally has the Tribune Building in Chicago.) If you’re short on time like I was, I highly recommend the 6-hour Ultimate Walking Tour, which hits all the key sights and includes a boat ride and lunch.

I’ve never been much of a beer drinker, far preferring the sweetness of girly cocktails, but the Czech stuff certainly won me over. It really is as good as you’ve heard. Why I didn’t bring at least a few cans or bottles home I don’t know, but it’s all the more reason to go back in 2010. The itinerary I’m planning for my trip with Miss Ross includes a few days to get better acquainted with the city and share it with someone else who’s big on taking photos.

  • November: Madeira Island, Portugal

Although at this point I should’ve given my overused credit card a rest, after Prague it was time to get serious about planning a week away with a friend who’d lured me in with talk of going to Goa. She decided against going that far for a week, but I was not about to turn down a chance to have someone to travel with. We ended up at an oceanfront hotel in Madeira, with a spa that we virtually had to ourselves where we spent the grey, chilly days. In Funchal, the capital, the sun often came out as we strolled around the gorgeous botanical gardens where I played around with the macro setting on my camera to capture the detail of so many striking flowers and cacti, took the cable car up into the hills for the fabulous views and walked the steep pathways to the deserted Imperador gardens, and I dragged her all over looking for a restaurant that served vegetarian food other than omelettes. In the evenings we read books and ate Milka chocolate and watched U.S. TV shows with Portuguese subtitles — House and Flash Forward and the Rachel Zoe Project (my new TV love); in our channel surfing we even caught an episode of Grey’s.

The highlight was the levada walk we took on the 25 Fontes (25 Fountains) route up in the mountains on the last day. Although it was misty and wet and cold at 2,000ft, and I felt guilty for dragging her along when she’d rather have been in the jacuzzi, it was all worth it when we turned a corner on the forest trail to see the waterfall at Rabacal. A memorable end to a great year of travel.